Gather your kit

Generally, the more you spend, the lighter and more sophisticated the bike will be, but you don’t need to spend up big to get an entry level bike that will get you around town.

Many adults already own a pushbike. Dust it off, get it serviced or refurbished at a bike repair shop or the ReCyclery and take it for a spin.

If you don’t have a bike, visit the ReCyclery or Gumtree to find a second hand bike or head out to some bike shops to buy a new bike. Check out Switched On Cycles, the Canberra Electric Bike Library or bike shops to try an e-bike before you buy. Look online for specialist bikes such as Blind Freddy ebikes for people with mobility issues.

Your budget should include the purchase cost of the bike plus a helmet and any essential accessories  plus insurance.

Frame shape & size

Frame height and length should correspond to both your leg length and your reach from the seat to the handlebars. Bikes were historically built with a horizontal cross bar or top tube to make the frame strong and rigid. Allow at least 5cm clearance between the top tube of the frame and your crotch when standing astride the bike with flat feet. Step-through frames were introduced to accommodate women’s long skirts, but these days are great for anyone who doesn’t want to swing their leg over the back of the bike to mount and dismount. The only drawback is that a step-through bike is more difficult to fit onto some car bike racks.

Folding vs fixed

Fixed frame bikes are generally more sturdy whereas folding bikes can be packed into the boot of a small car or into a caravan or carried onto a bus (at the discretion of the driver) – very handy as “transportable transport”, an alternative to using an externally mounted car bike rack and useful for the “last kilometre” of a journey.

Wheel size

The larger the wheel, the further the bike travels on a single pedal rotation, which can make you faster. However, in e-bikes, a smaller wheel works just as well and reduces the size and weight of the bike.

Weight

E-bikes tend to be heavy compared to pushbikes due to the weight of the motor and battery plus the extra strength required in the frame to withstand the power and torque of the motor. Consider the weight of different models if you expect to lift the bike frequently onto bus or car racks.

Handlebars

The higher the handlebars, the more upright your body will be, putting less strain on back and neck, and improving comfort and visibility. The lower the handlebars, the more prone and aerodynamic your body position will be. Riser handles are curved or straight, promoting an upright body position and wider hand position for easy steering control around town. Bullhorn handles bend up to the front allowing for a more prone body position good for climbing hills. Dropbars or ramshorn handles curve under, allowing a variety of hand and body positions for different terrain and aerodynamics, good for road racing. Racing bikes commonly have handlebars lower than the seat whereas town bikes have handlebars above the seat.

Seat/Saddle

More width and padding equals more support and comfort. The seat should be horizontal. For greatest power when pedalling, adjust the height so that when you are sitting on the seat with the ball of your foot on the pedal at the lowest point, your leg is almost but not quite fully extended (ie your knees should be slightly bent at the bottom of each pedal stroke). You should not be able to put your feet flat on the ground whilst sitting on the seat. Adjust the seat forward or backward to change the reach to the handlebars and your balance point over the pedals.

Gears, chain & brakes (“groupset”)

Enclosed hub gears are protected from grit and wear and are becoming common on e-bikes for smooth integration with electric power and changing gears when stopped. High-end bikes may feature a belt drive rather than a standard chain. Look for a chain guard to keep clothing from catching and protect the chain from mud. Disc brakes can be more effective in hilly terrain but are more expensive than standard rim brakes.

Tyre width & tread

Fatter tyres with deeper tread offer greater grip and comfort on a variety of surfaces, but are slower. Pumping tyres up to a higher pressure makes riding faster but bumpier; lower pressure absorbs more bumps and grips the road better in wet weather. Look for space in the forks to be able to fit mudguards to protect your clothing and gear from wheel splatter.

Pedals

Standard pedals allow for any kind of shoe. Cleat or clip-in pedals require compatible shoes that enable more efficient pedalling – you’ll need to learn how to twist your foot off the pedal to avoid falling when stopping the bike. Shoes with a recessed cleat teamed with one-sided pedals can be a good compromise.

Suspension & shock absorbers

Not needed for commuting although many seats will include some suspension for comfort.

Save money by looking after your bike yourself or take it to a professional.

Most bike shops will offer free adjustments and the first service after purchase. They also offer repair and maintenance services. Or you can maintain your bike yourself. Get your bike serviced if it hasn’t been ridden for some time.

Regularly check the brake levers, pads and cables, lubricate the gears and chain with a specific bike lubricant, check tyre pressure and tread. Every six months, check and tighten nuts and bolts. Check and replace light batteries (if not connected to an e-bike battery). 

The Canberra Environment Centre’s ReCyclery and ActSmart offer hands-on workshops to learn how to maintain or fix your bike and get instruction about how to repair a punctured tyre. Bicycle repair shops may also offer instruction, or watch some how-to videos online. 

Look out for public repair bike stations and local business ‘bike stops’ that have facilities for bike riders, and ask your workplace to set up a station for basic maintenance.

Looking after the battery of an electric bike will maximise its lifespan, which may be anywhere from 400 to 1500 charge cycles – up to several years – depending how often you charge it. The more you pedal and the lower the power setting, the longer the battery lasts. 

The range of accessories for bikes is extensive!

Here are suggestions for what to consider when getting started – many bikes will already have some of these fitted:

• A helmet is a legal requirement and protects your brain in the event of a crash. Make sure it fits snugly – it should stay in place when you shake your head. Check the position of sliders regularly. Always do up the chinstrap snugly – you should be able to fit two fingers. 
• Lights, reflectors, mirrors to see and to be seen. Some lights are detachable and can be charged via USB cable.
• Racks, baskets, trailers, child seats: see more about kids and cargo [text link]
• Repair kit with spare inner tube (correct size!), tyre pump or gas canister, tyre lever, multi-tool, straps on under seat or inside frame void or to handlebars
• Bell
• Bike lock: a D-lock is the most secure method to lock the frame to a fixed pole or rack. Cable or chain or folding lock can be threaded through wheels and frame. The thicker or more solid the lock, the harder it is for a thief to quickly cut it off. Choose combination locks so you never lose keys.
• Mud guards and mud flaps
• Chain guard
• Stand
• Water bottle holder 
• Handlebar pocket for keys, snacks, phone
• Home storage racks
• Tyre pump: on the bike, plus floor pump at home
• Navigation, dashcam, apps
• Car bike racks

There are many options for carrying large and small loads on bikes!

Hanging ordinary bags off the handlebars is NOT one of them – they can swing into the wheels or your feet and pull your bike off-balance. Cross-body satchels, sling bags or shoulder bags are also not ideal as they can slide around your body pulling you off-balance.

Here are some better options that can be fitted to almost any kind of bike (pushbike, e-bike, cargo bike). There is no perfect way to carry stuff, just figure out what works best for you.

Pouches & saddlebags

Pros: small pouches can be fitted to handlebars, under the seat or within the frame of the bike; ideal for small items like mobile phones, puncture repair kit, water bottle, raincoat.

Cons: limited capacity.

Backpacks

Pros: easy, versatile, goes with you on and off the bike, you probably already own one.

Cons: makes your back sweaty, raises your centre of gravity.

Baskets (wire or wicker)

Pros: easy to pop belongings into, some models detach so you can take it with you. Can be fitted to either the handlebars or a rack above the rear wheel.

Cons: large baskets on the handlebars obstruct your view of the front wheel and may make steering feel unwieldy depending on how they are attached; items could bounce out if not packed in well and secured with a strap or net. Baskets can sag or break if they are overloaded.

Racks

Pros: cheap to install, easy to load your choice of bag and secure with either a fitted spring-loaded catch or a stretchy strap.

Cons: standard racks are quite narrow so larger bags may be unstable.

Panniers

Pros: either double or single bag, fits onto a rear rack, keeps the weight of cargo low for good balance, items are securely contained and protected from weather and splashes. Can be fixed to the bike and large enough to drop your own bags into, or may detach easily to take with you instead of a separate bag – look for a shoulder strap or handle.

Cons: pannier bags can be less comfortable to carry on your person than a backpack.

Trailers

Pros: like a pick-up truck for your bike, useful if you need to carry large items like tradie toolboxes, musical instruments or weekly grocery shopping or your business supplies. The weight is low to the ground and off the bike; two wheels makes them stable. A good alternative to a cargo bike – removing the trailer allows the bike to be used separately.

Cons: they add length and width to the bike making them more awkward to manoeuvre and park.

Cargo bikes

Pros: longer, sturdier bikes, usually electric, many with carrying capacity in excess of 150kg – the minivan of bikes! Can be fitted with heavy duty versions of any of the above cargo accessories eg front tray basket capable of carrying two bags of groceries or a case of beer; rear bench seating for two children; customised pannier crates, boxes or trailers to carry heavy supplies.

Cons: longer, heavier bikes can be more difficult to balance, manoeuvre and park; more expensive than adding baskets, panniers or trailer to an existing pushbike.

See some other ways: ‘Urban biking: the art of carrying things by bike’

There are many ways to get children around town on bikes. Small pets can go into baskets: children cannot!

Note that a bike rider must be at least 16 years old to carry children, all of whom must be under 10 years old and wearing helmets. All child seats must meet Australian safety standards: look for 5-point harness, foot rests & straps, handles, head supports, adjustable strap positions and padding for comfort as the child grows, seat padding and airflow.

Check that your bike is compatible before buying any attachment. Bike shops will help you fit them. Don’t use a child seat that has been involved in an accident.

Front-mounted baby seats

For children between 12 months and 2 years old, these mount either to the head tube of the bike frame or the handlebars. The child feels secure nestled between the parent’s arms and engaged looking forward. Some have a face rest. In general though, these seats have less head support, can be awkward for parent to see around/over the child to steer, can interfere with parent’s knees and pedaling action, and the high position raises the centre of gravity making balance less stable.

Front-mounted toddler seats

For children 2–4 years old, these mount to the frame. They consist of just a saddle and foot rests (no back rest or harness). They are less obstructive for the parent and have a lower weight point than the front-mounted baby seat. Children must support themselves but are likely to be more engaged in the ride.

Rear-mounted child seats

For children 12 months to 4–5 years old, these mount either to the bike frame or luggage rack. They have a lower centre of gravity than front-mounted seats, and don’t interfere with parent visibility or pedalling action. It can be harder for a parent to mount a bike with both a rear seat and a horizontal cross-bar frame.

Toddler trailer

Can carry 1 or 2 small children from 12 months old. 20-inch metal-rim wheels offer greater comfort and durability, and they are generally more weatherproof. Bench seats are more comfortable than sling seats, and the roll-cage protects children in the event of an accident. Weight is low and stable on two wheels. Some models convert into jogger strollers and be used in stroller mode for babies from 6 weeks old with additional padding. Additional benefits include being able to load some cargo (or pets!) in with the child, use the rear rack of the bike for other cargo, and detach the trailer (eg leave it at daycare) to use the bike independently.

Trailers do add length and width to the bike making them more awkward to manoeuvre and park. With no suspension they can be a bit rattly over uneven ground, and they are more expensive to purchase than seats.

Tag-along bikes or trailer cycles

Half-bikes that attach by a towbar to the parent bike like a tandem bike, enables kids to pedal, and can be handy getting home from daycare or school after a long day. Just watch out – if the child leans to one side, it can affect parent balance.

Tow bar or kit

A bar or frame that attaches to the back of the parent bike and lifts the front wheel of the child bike off the ground to tow like a tag-along bike. Good for enabling young children to ride their own bike and hitch up for longer rides. Can also affect parent balance if the child leans to one side.

Child bike tow rope

A cable or elasticated tow rope can be great for towing a competent young child’s bike up a hill or when they get tired. It is very portable and connects quickly to the parent bike seat post and child bike head post, and enables the child to ride and control their own bike. It’s not designed for general riding, but handy as a backup.

Child bucket

For 1, 2 or 3 children 12 months to as big as you can carry them. These cargo bikes generally have two wheels either side of a front bucket which is fitted out with bench seats and harnesses. The weight is low to the ground and stable, there is optional weather canopy and room for additional cargo. They can be long and wide to manoeuvre and park, so may take a little practice to manage.

• A helmet is a legal requirement and protects your brain in the event of a crash. Make sure it fits snugly – it should stay in place when you shake your head. Check the position of sliders regularly. Always do up the chinstrap snugly – you should be able to fit two fingers.
• In cool or cold weather, wear light layers that you can take off if you get warm, a windproof jacket, a light beanie that fits snugly under your helmet, and gloves or mittens to protect against windchill.
• In warm weather, protect your skin from the sun with long sleeves or sunscreen.
• Flat shoes that attach securely to your feet, with rubber soles that grip the pedals are advisable (smooth leather soles may slide around on the pedals, thongs or ballet flats may fall off).
• Carry a raincoat or poncho for unexpected showers. Shoe covers are great for keeping shoes and socks dry.
• Light colours and/or a reflective high-vis jacket, vest, belt or sash over your clothes makes you visible to other road users. High-vis doesn’t have to look construction-site-ready: check out some more fashion-conscious ideas!
• Check that tight clothing still allows you to pedal and operate the bike comfortably including getting on and off.
• Keep loose clothing and shoe laces clear of wheels, pedals, gears and the chain – trouser clips are good for keeping pant legs contained.